A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Reef

After a delightful day of doing very little yesterday (most of our day centered around our beach-side massage appointment), today was adventure day. We had booked a snorkeling trip that goes to two locations. The first is by the crater Molokini, and the second is colloquially called "Turtle Town." The "luxury catamaran" included post-snorkeling lunch and drinks as well as the requisite equipment.

Boarding the boat involved getting about waist deep in the water, so I removed my insulin pump for boarding. When I went to reattach it once aboard the boat, it was making a god-awful noise and telling me that it was experiencing a critical error. I was on a boat in the Pacific Ocean. Great timing! But, either way I knew it was only a few hours, and I was not about to abandon the trip we'd already paid for. So, I was going to make it work.

Earlier I was lamenting the hassle of dealing with my pump while snorkeling, so I guess the universe has a twisted sense of humor? Thankfully (and oddly) I had cell service as we set out for Molokini. I was able to call Medtronic customer service and cease the horrible alarm noise. But, attempts to reset the pump turned out to be futile, so I had to request a replacement. Of course it's impossible to overnight something to Hawaii without some sort of courier (earliest they could guarantee was Monday), and we return home Saturday. So, it should be waiting for me when I arrive home.

I am very thankful I brought back up insulin pens with me on the trip, though as I write this I am not 100% sure they are both still good. When not on the pump, I need two types of insulin - one long acting and one short acting. I have the short acting in a vial, as that is what goes into my pump. But, I don't have syringes to get it out of the vial (there is a whole thing for getting it into my pump). I also have it in pen form, which involves attaching a little needle that screws on to the top. I have plenty of those, but that requires the insulin to still be viable. I took some insulin upon our return to our room, but it takes a little time to start working. So, I am channeling my anxiety into a post!

I spoke with my doctor's office, and I had CVS here send a request for a prescription to him as an added precaution for the insulin I don't have in a vial. And I was assured by the pharmacist (or whoever I spoke with there) that they could sell me a few syringes if I need them without a prescription as long as I present the vial of insulin as my record there clearly reflects my diabetes. Of course, the CVS is 30 minutes away and only open from 10-6, because island life.

The good news is that it didn't dampen my spirits snorkeling.

I debated whether or not to use the floaty thing offered by the company. At first, I felt all like, "I can swim. Whatever." But, then the crew pointed out that even if you can swim well, you may not be used to 45 minutes doing so in the ocean. So I opted for the floaty thing, since I was already a little anxious. I am kind of afraid of the ocean - I blame my desert upbringing. At Molokini I saw some really cool looking fish of all colors, lots of urchin, and we even saw two reef sharks!

I asked one of the crew how healthy the reef we were on is currently, since I didn't notice a ton of color or much diversity. He said it wasn't too affected by the recent bleaching, but I kept reflecting on some of the snorkeling I had done many years ago. I snorkeled around Oahu in 2001, and I was fortunate enough to snorkel on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia in 1995 or maybe 1996. Both of those experiences were incredible - there was so much life both in terms of the fish and the coral itself.

I have watched many a nature special narrated by Sir David Attenborough, but this experience really cemented that we have a responsibility to preserve our oceans. We can and should do better. Okay, save our oceans PSA over.

The second stop was at Turtle Town, which is along the Makena Coast. This stop involved swimming much further, which made me grateful for my embarrassing floatation device. I saw at least a half dozen turtles - some seemed as big as a two-top table. Others got really close. At one point, I was about 3 feet from one swimming near the surface. Apparently this is a spot where turtles come to get cleaned by the fish in the area.

Swimming back to the boat was a workout, so at least I got some exercise while I was insulin-less for about 4 hours total.

As we boarded the boat, lunch was served, and the bar was open. I ate light and low-carb, save for a couple beers. I figured since I don't bolus (take insulin) for the carbs in beer (doctor's orders, because alcohol actually lowers blood sugar), and it would calm my anxiety (which can spike blood sugar), having a beer or two was not going to be a problem.

The lesson I take from this day is be careful what you wish for. I didn't want to deal with my pump on the boat and beach, and now my pump is a very expensive paperweight until I get my replacement on Saturday! Also, sometimes technology fails, so don't ditch the analog backup.

The "Real" Hawaii

As we approach the halfway point in our vacation, I'm a little tanner (for me), a bit bug bitten (more on that later), and trying to maintain vacation chill instead of spinning out about life back home.

We spent most of Monday by the serenity pool. It's serene because cell phones and children are banned. There is a swim up bar in the infinity pool that looks out over the ocean. So what I'm saying is that it's well named.

After we'd had our fill of lounging, we got shaved ice at Ululani's. The line was long and a little slow moving, but it was totally worth it. I used to love shaved ice in high school. All my LDS friends could have it, and it was nonfat (oh the 90s and its crusade against fat). It was always the perfect treat on a scorching hot Phoenix summer day. I was delighted that my flavor combo wasn't mocked (vanilla, strawberry, and grape with the snow cap topping).

After enjoying our shaved ice, we went to a mall to procure shoes for Eddie and our planned trip to Hana. The only tennis shoes he brought are the kind that lack any sort of tread, and we wanted to do some of the hiking and exploring along the road to Hana. So, we found a Famous Footwear in a pretty sad mall and remedied the packing oversight. And, like most places we've visited, I saw some chickens hanging out. When I saw Moana, as much as I enjoyed Hei Hei as comic relief, I didn't really get why she had a chicken hanging out with her. Well, I get it now! Chickens are everywhere here.

After our shopping adventure, we headed to Maui Brewing Company for dinner. I live for good bar food, and MBC did not disappoint. In addition to delicious beers (made using solar energy), we had tasty nachos, ahi tuna tostadas, chicken wings, and one of those baked cookie dessert things that come in a cast iron pan. And of course, we enjoyed this bounty while taking in another incredible sunset.

The next day we set out on the Road to Hana. Or, as one local we encountered called it, "the road to divorce."

Eddie had purchased an audio tour that works with GPS to guide us on our journey, since cell service was going to be spotty. The narrator reminded me of a Hawaiian Casey Kasem most of the time, but he periodically slipped into what I can only describe as Hawaiian hood (e.g., "hang loose, bra."). He was the inspiration for this blog title as he described Hana as "the real Hawaii."

As we learned from our audio tour, the Road to Hana has more than 600 curves, some of them pretty daunting. Thankfully, I am not prone to carsickness, otherwise it would have been a long and miserable day! The tour actually takes you past Hana to the Seven Sacred Pools, but we opted to turn around after reaching Hana to avoid night driving and to make our 7:00 p.m. dinner reservation.

Our first stop was at Twin Falls.

We walked to the close one, took the obligatory photos, and headed on our way. Next up was a small town Keanae Village where we took in amazing views of the ocean crashing into the rocks. Well, I took in the view while Eddie took out our drone. But, he did get some cool shots of the shore.

Then, we stopped at Waikani or Three Bears Falls where there are three falls all clustered together.

By this point, we were starting to get hungry. We took a quick stop at this lava cave that had a super narrow opening, but then opened up into a rather large and spooky structure. According to Hawaiian Casey Kasum, nothing dangerous lives in there, but I was good after about 3 minutes inside. It was dark and damp, and stuff kept dripping on me. Plus, I was terrified Eddie was going to whack his head into some low-hanging rock or root.

We took a quick snack break at the halfway point and opted to save the rest of the stops for the return trip. We reached Hana around 1:00, after leaving our hotel around 8:00 a.m. We grabbed lunch at the Hana Ranch, which I am hoping will be the worst meal we eat here. It wasn't terrible, but it wasn't exactly good either. We didn't really spend much time in Hana as there isn't much to see in the "real Hawaii." Apparently, the one bank in town is only open an hour per day. And sometimes the shops and restaurants are closed just cause the folks that work there don't feel like coming in. Hang loose, bra!

On the return trip, we wanted to check out Wainapana state park and its black sand beach. I had only ever visited one black sand beach before. It was on Santorini, and I remembered not enjoying the experience. I thought it was because of the crowds, but as soon as I removed my shoes on this one, I remembered it was also because black sand is PAINFUL on your feet. It's hot and sharp, and it feels like you're walking on glass. Classic case of Instagram versus reality. It looks beautiful and makes nice photos, but it is not pleasant.

We walked around the park a bit where we saw many mongooses (and then debated whether the plural was mongeese - and if my spell check is to be believed, it is not - it is mongooses), and then we got back into the car to continue on our way.

Eddie really wanted to swim, so we stopped at Pua'a Ka'a Wayside Park where there is a small waterfall that empties into a pond you can swim in. The water was pretty chilly, and the rocks were small and sharp or big and slippery to walk on. I swear it took me 5 minutes to cross a stream that could not have been more than 5 feet across. But, we got in the water to our waists and decided that was good enough. Glad I did it, though it did take a few minutes for feeling to return to my toes (which I guess was good considering how painful the walking in the water was). I have a new respect for all those intrepid and crazy people who go on the TV show Naked and Afraid. Not wearing shoes on tough terrain is awful.

Before hitting the road, I decided to take a quick pee break, and that was a mistake. I went into one of the stalls and didn't notice the puddle that had amassed on the floor. My. Foot. Got. Wet. And I can only guess about the makeup of the water. I shrieked, tried to rinse my feet and flips flops off in the sink, and then immediately used my hand wipes I had in my purse to try to disinfect everything. I am all about the relaxed, island living, but can't we prioritize hygiene over surfing?!

Somewhere along the way I also got a bug bite that is about the size of a quarter. The good news is that it appears to be alone. I'm glad we bought bug spray, and I'm sorry for the deet, environment.

The drive back went much more quickly than the drive there, since Eddie was a bit more comfortable and took the turns a bit quicker. We stopped in Pa'ia to get our daily shaved ice (it's going to be a daily thing if I can help it), and then went back to the hotel for a much-needed shower.

We made it just in time for our dinner reservation at one of the restaurants on property, Duo. It's a steak and seafood joint that does a raw bar on Tuesday nights. I opted for steak, and Eddie courted mercury poisoning at the raw bar. It was a delicious meal that ended with cotton candy - grape-flavored cotton candy. I am the weirdo who lives for artificial grape. I think it's because my sister liked it, and when I was little I idolized my sister. I liked everything she liked - even when I didn't (case in point Apple Jacks are disgusting, yet I requested them for years). But, the artificial grape thing stuck, much to my father's chagrin. It was so good, and our waiter sent us home with an extra in a bag.

We still have much excitement and relaxation on the docket for the rest of the trip. So make sure to check back for another post or two before we say Aloha, Maui!

Maui

Ever since our arrival in California, I've had trouble committing to making plans. So when Eddie insisted that he needed a vacation, I agreed we should bite the bullet and plan something. It didn't take long to decide: Maui.

Neither of us had ever been, and Hawaii is super easy from California. So, we booked our tickets and started making plans.

The hardest part turned out to be saying goodbye to the dog. As the sitter went to take him away, he turned back a little confused but then merrily trotted alongside her. I'm convinced he won't want to come home with us as she will take him on daily hikes and adventures with all his little doggo friends. But, we'll cross that bridge when we come to it Saturday.

We splurged and flew first out here. I find that chatting with the flight attendants (and copious drinks) helps my nerves on the flight. I asked the two that were in the front their least favorite route and both answered LAX <-> JFK, which wasn't the least bit surprising. Our pilot wasn't very communicative. We spent an inordinate amount of time sitting on the tarmac waiting for takeoff without a peep from the cockpit. One minute we're sitting, the next it's wheels up. Normally you get a little bit of play-by-play (we're third in line/next in line, etc).

About halfway there we heard from him that we were going to be over some weather that would make the next half hour pretty bumpy. I grabbed Eddie's hand and squeezed it with varying intensity for the duration of the bumps. At one point the flight attendants were advised to stick close to their seats, which always sends my anxiety into overdrive. If they're up and about, I know it isn't that bad. It's when they strap in that makes my butt pucker.

Thanks to some yoga breathing, I made it through - and promptly asked for a cocktail. As we approached land, the flight attendant warned me it would be bumpy and windy coming into Maui. But, bumpy landings don't bother me too much, because I know the torture is almost over. We landed safely and made our way outside into the airport. Which, what?! I was pretty amused by the concept that everything is outside, but I guess it makes sense given the climate. There are also a lot of wild roosters around the airport, which also struck me as strange.

We waited for the Hertz shuttle for what felt like an eternity but finally got our car. The shuttle driver did not give the impression of loving her job. She said mahalo at the end of the trip, but her tone betrayed her.

We made a quick Costco run for sunscreen, champagne, and assorted chocolates for gifts and headed to our hotel.

As another splurge, we're staying at the Four Seasons Maui. I've only been to Hawaii once (Oahu with my sister about 18 years ago), and I was very upset I wasn't greeted anywhere with a lei. Television and movies had lied to me. I thought you landed and immediately were presented with a lei by a dude in a Hawaiian shirt or a lady in a grass skirt. Thankfully, the Four Seasons greets you properly, and I finally got lei'd (hacky joke - I know, and I'm sorry).

The property is beautiful, and the staff is all so friendly. Everywhere we walk, each worker we encounter greets us with an enthusiastic aloha and smile. Our room was ready shortly after our arrival (yay for the Amex fine hotels and resorts early check in benefit), and we did a little exploring of the property.

We got lunch at THE restaurant on property that serves it, which quickly decimated the $100 food and beverage credit that is also included as part of the Amex deal. We both opted for something containing raw ahi tuna (mine was a wrap; his was a poke bowl) and a cocktail while soaking in our ocean view and perfect weather. After, we wandered down to the beach for a little while and then decided to go shopping and procure Hawaiian shirts for Eddie.

There's a little shopping center about a half mile from our hotel, so we walked. The shops are a mix of high end and surfer mall fare (Quicksilver contrasted with Gucci), and we found this local Hawaiian shop called Tori Richard. I have a new obsession. Eddie got some great shirts, and I got two dresses I don't need. I find most women's clothes in Hawaii to either skew mature woman (read: grandmother) or slutty teenager. There isn't much I've found in between. We'll, Tori had me covered. The clothes are vibrant and flattering without making me feel menopausal or pre-pubescent. And worst of all they ship to the mainland tax-free. I'm in trouble...

After shopping we got ready for dinner at a fancy place a friend from college who lives here had recommended called Ka'ana Kitchen. It was phenomenal. We both did a mini tasting menu with wine pairing while enjoying an amazing sunset ocean view.

We ate on the early side, and were back at the hotel by 8:00. Since we'd taken the 7 a.m. flight out of SFO and been up since 1:30 a.m. local time, I was asleep by 8:30.

It was a great first day, and this trip is just what the doctor ordered (except not literally, because I plan to eat and drink to excess).

The First Month (and then some) with Reese

The day we brought Reese home

It's been about a month and half since we brought home a little ball of love and sharp teeth that forever changed our lives. Reese no longer mostly fits on our laps - though that doesn't stop him from sitting on them. And though we've had him a short time, we can't imagine our lives without him.

Still a lap dog

The first weeks were challenging (just read older posts from this blog for details). But we've mostly come through the other side. I hear puppies go through a regression around 7 months, which I am not looking forward to. But, I love him so much and will steel myself for whatever nonsense we have to put up with (but please don't let it be biting...).

Reese is an incredibly social pup - I think he takes after me. Every time I take him out, he pulls toward the dog run so he can look for his friends. And when it's empty, he just sits on the fake grass looking so forlorn. There is a really great pack of pups in the building, but he seems especially partial to the Frenchies. His best friend is a 2-year old boy Frenchie named Beni, and he has a little girlfriend named Bou who is about a month younger than him.

Reese and Bou

A woman in our building runs a doggie daycare/walking service, and she's been kind enough to coordinate daily meetups with me as well as letting us crash some of her adventures hiking and to the beach. Reese loves it, and I love how tired and well behaved he is when we return home.

He's been a huge ray of sunshine and provided some much-needed structure to my day as I continue my job hunt. Even in spite of the early (and probably pending) challenges, I wouldn't change bringing this guy into our lives for anything.